Sunshine Acres

You can search the internet for these books/video, order them through your local book store or check them out at your local library.  We have them listed in the order we recommend them.

The Dog Listener:

• Paperback: 400 pages
• Author: Jan Fennell
• Publisher: William Morrow Paperbacks; Reprint edition (January 20, 2004)
• Language: English
• ISBN-10: 0060089466
• ISBN-13: 978-0060089467
• Product Dimensions: 6 x 1 x 9 inches
• Shipping Weight: 1.2 pounds

The Dog Listener (DVD):

The Dog Listener-DVD (Can only be purchased on Jan Fennell’s website)

In this film, “The Dog Listener”, Jan demonstrates her technique and the exceptional results it can provide. She shares her secrets and shows how it can be much more effective and compassionate alternative to standard “obedience” training. This easy to follow approach includes case histories of problem dogs. The film is set out in easy to follow chapters:

The Dog Listener – Rediscovering the Lost Language- Establishing Leadership- Understanding and Applying the 4 Key Elements:-

1. Feeding 
2. Perceived danger 
3. The hunt 
4. Reuniting after Separation 
Please note, prices shown include P&P to your region.

The Puppy Listener:

As you prepare for your puppy’s arrival, below is a list of supplies you can begin gathering.  I highly recommend Jan Fennel’s book “The Dog Listener” which is shown in the list below.

What Supplies do I need to have on hand when my Irish Goldendoodle puppy comes home?

• Purina Pro Plan Puppy Sensitive Skin & Stomach Salmon & Rice Dry Dog Food (check availability for this now to be sure you have it on hand when puppy comes home)  Here it is on Chewy
• Treats-small soft ones work well.  For an extra special treat, use cheese or small pieces of cooked ground beef or chicken. Here are links to a couple kinds we use: Wellness Soft Puppy Bites (Chewy Link) and Hill’s Science Diet Grain-Free Crunchy Biscuits Chewy Link (if you prefer a crunchy type)
• A copy of Jan Fennel’s book or DVD of “The Dog Listener”.  This book is a must read/watch for any dog owner who wants willing cooperation from their pet.  If you only read one thing-be sure this is it.  Here is a link to Jan’s site where you can learn about her methods.  Buy her book on Betterworldbooks.  The ISBN number of her book is: 9780060089467.
• Stainless-steel non-tipping food and water bowls
• I.D. Tags with the contact information for yourself and your veterinarian
• A collar (8 to 12 inch size) and a 6-foot leather or nylon leash
• A 37-42 inch wire crate with an adjustable divider in the center so you can grow the crate with your puppy.
• Dog shampoo  (I like the hypoallergenic kind)
• Brush and comb, – A pin brush goes over the top of the coat to make it look smooth, and a steel toothed comb works great for going deep into the coat.
• Nail clippers
• Cleanup supplies such as a stain remover, paper towels, deodorizing  and odor neutralizing spray(like Natures Miracle)
• Chew Toys (Kong is one of my favorite brands.) Do not get any rawhide chews.

This is a list of the basic necessities.  There are many other helpful and fun products available at pet supply stores.

Sunshine Acres New Puppy Care and Going Home Instructions

For the trip home from Sunshine Acres you/the family can hold your puppy on your lap (take along an old blanket or towel), or bring along his travel crate if you are coming alone.  Once you are home, give him a chance to potty and offer him food and water.  This is a good time to bond with him, so plenty of cuddling and play are great.  We recommend the crate training method of potty training.  Dogs avoid going to the bathroom near their eating and sleeping areas, so they will by instinct try to keep their den (crate) clean.  If you are interacting with him, he could stay out of his crate as long as you like.  When he has to potty he will start to circle and sniff looking for a place to potty.  You will quickly pick up on his body language and can take him outside (through the same door to the same spot in the yard).  If you are not going to be watching him, put him in his crate.  A rule of thumb for time in the crate is one hour per month of age for a puppy.  So, he should not be left in the crate more than about 2 hours at this point.  He can hold it longer than that, but we don’t want him to have to get in the habit of holding it for a long time, especially as you are beginning his potty training.  Give him plenty of opportunities to potty and if he has been in the crate for a while be sure he has a chance to run and play before he is crated again.  The wire crates with an adjustable divider are very nice, as you can make the crate small enough that he only has room to lay down spread out comfortably.  Do not leave the crate any larger than this as then a puppy will be more likely to think one corner of the big crate is his potty and the other corner is his den/bed/clean area.  Do not put any blankets/beds in the crate for the first month since a puppy is less likely to soil it’s crate if it is left bare.  However, it would be fine to leave toys in the crate.

For feeding, he is used to eating at about 7:00 in the morning and again in the evening around 4 to 7:00pm.  Offer him food (1/3 to 1/2 cup per feeding is common, but the specific amount for your puppy’s size and age will be on the puppy’s shot record when you are here), putting his bowl down for 20 minutes and then taking it up again.  If he doesn’t eat anything for that feeding, just wait until his next meal to offer him food again.  He should eat twice a day.  If you would like to feed him three times a day that is okay too, just adjust the amounts accordingly.  A puppy usually needs to potty about 5 to 20 minutes after a meal so watch him closely for a potty break after he eats.  Try to be consistent about what time each day he is fed as a puppy who eats on a schedule also potties on a schedule.  Leave water available for him all the time, (except for when he’s in the crate) taking it up a couple hours before bedtime.   He is used to eating the puppy food listed below.  Be sure to feed this food for at least the first week or two.  If you wish to change to another high quality dog food, do so gradually over about a 7-10 day period as switching to another food too quickly will cause loose stools.

We will give you a blanket for you to take home with your puppy that has his mother and littermates scent on it.  This will help the puppy feel more at ease the first few days as he adjust to his new home.  The first 3 to 5 days is the time of greatest adjustment for a puppy in its new home.  Your boy might be intimidated by things that are new, or bark when he is in his crate.  Continue to use the crate, even if he cries when he is in it as once he gets used to all the new things he will love the comfort and security of his crate/”den”.  You will notice his comfort level increasing each day that goes by.  It seems that by the time the first week is past, a puppy will be adjusted to the new routine and will have already bonded strongly with their new family.  It seems to help the puppy at night if their crate can be put in a bedroom near the family for the first few nights. Or, put his crate by the couch and have someone sleep near the puppy.  At this age sometimes they can sleep all night, sometimes they will need to get up once during the night.  If you find he is consistently getting up more than once during the night, set your alarm for around 2:00 and take him potty.  Each night move the clock back ½ hour (2:30 the 2nd night, 3:00 the 3rd night) gradually stretching out the time until he can sleep through until morning.  However, if he does not wake up on his own during the night, there is no need to wake him for a potty break. Let him sleep the night through.

Following are some tips. I recommend spending time cradling your puppy occasionally throughout the day for a strong bonding time. For rude behavior like nipping or jumping, I recommend reaching down during the act and cradling firmly and lovingly in the prone position with your puppy’s tummy facing up. Timeouts in this position start when your puppy holds still and should last for no more than 5-10 seconds. I encourage my puppies during a timeout by talking gently to them and scratching their ears and tummy. If you notice the little tail just whirring away and lots of licking, you have accomplished your purpose.

Puppies are naturally inquisitive, exploring every nook and cranny. However, their curiosity can lead them into serious illness or injury so it’s important to make your home safe. Make sure your puppy can not access electrical wires around the house. Close household chemicals behind doors as well as any medications. Be especially careful with antifreeze, poisonous plants, xylitol (an artificial sweetener found in sugar free gum and candies that is toxic in very small quantities), chocolate and other toxic human foods. Take the time now to research what plants in your home and yard could be harmful to your puppy, and make sure your puppy’s home environment is a safe one. There are many helpful resources for puppy proofing your home online.

Grooming is an important part of owning a non-shedding dog.  Use a pin brush over the puppy’s coat once or twice a week and also comb deep into the coat once a week.  At the length he is now, grooming isn’t really needed, but it is important for him to get used to being handled.  Play with his feet, ears, toes, mouth, tail, etc.  often so he is used to it.  A haircut will be needed every two to three months.  Try to limit bathing to once a month if possible, although bathing as often as once a week is ok. As his coat grows longer, be careful that you are combing/brushing deep into the coat.  The tangles/mats will not develop on the end of the hair, but right next to the skin (especially behind the ears).

We recommend taking formal obedience training classes with your puppy.  It is good for the puppy to continue to be socialized to new people, places and other dogs.  If you prefer, professional trainers can also do individual classes, or come to your home for private lessons.  Choose a class/trainer that uses gentle, positive reinforcement types of methods.  The Goldendoodles are by nature a soft hearted, gentle dog, and harsh training methods can break their spirits.  (No prong collars needed).  Most classes do not allow a puppy to begin until all of their puppy shots are finished which is usually around 12-16 weeks of age.  Limit your puppy’s exposure to unknown dogs until all of his puppy shots have been finished.  Your friends’ and families’ healthy dogs with current vaccinations are fine for your puppy to be around.

For training at home (the most important kind of training), Jan Fennel’s book The Dog Listener is very helpful, and one I highly recommend reading through.  Just a few minutes each day spent in fun interaction and training with your puppy will reap lifelong benefits.   While we recommend taking obedience classes as a continued socialization experience for the puppy, as the dog’s owner you are by far the best equipped person to train your puppy.  By learning how to interact with your puppy, and understanding how a dog’s mind works, potential behavior problems will be avoided.  Help your puppy understand what his boundaries are through training.  A well mannered puppy is one who will be loved by everyone and welcome anywhere!

When you are here picking up your puppy, we will give you your boy’s health record which contains the vaccinations, preventative dewormers and such information on it.  Be sure your vet gets this record so they know what has already been done with the puppy and what still needs to be done to complete his puppy immunizations.

Also, your puppy’s microchip number will need to be registered in your name.  To register (activate) your puppy’s microchip, go to Microchip ID systems at BuddyID.com.  A small one-time fee (around $20) enrolls you and the puppy for life into the 24-hour Pet Recovery Network and Call Center and into the National Pet Microchip Look up Tool.    By activating this chip you will be linking his chip number to your contact information.  Without activation, the microchip is useless, like a blank dog tag.  While we refer to the puppies on the website by a four digit number, this is only the last 4 digits of their 10 digit microchip number.  You will need the entire 10 digit number to activate his chip, which is recorded on his health record.  Your vet can also use a microchip scanner to read the microchip, which is implanted over the puppy’s shoulder blade area.   A couple weeks after you have completed this registration, check the online microchip databases that the registration has been processed.  Instructions for registering your puppy’s microchip will also be on the health record, which you will receive when you are here getting your puppy.

Supplies to have on hand when puppy comes home:

• Purina Pro Plan Puppy Sensitive Skin & Stomach Salmon & Rice Dry Dog Food- Link to Chewy  Check into where you can find this food a while before puppy is due to come home. Be sure to feed this food for at least the first week or so. If you wish to change to another high quality dog food, do so gradually over about a 10 day period. Switching to another food too quickly will cause loose stools. We have found that occasionally some Goldendoodles will get a sensitivity to chicken and chicken byproducts, so have chosen to feed a non-chicken formula dog food.
• Treats-small soft ones work well.  For an extra special treat, use cheese or small pieces of cooked ground beef or chicken.
• A copy of Jan Fennel’s book or DVD of “The Dog Listener”.  This book is a must read/watch for any dog owner who wants willing cooperation from their pet.  If you only read one thing-be sure this is it.  Here is a link to Jan’s website where you can learn about her methods. Buy her book at BetterWorldBooks.com.  The ISBN number of her book is: 9780060089467
• Stainless-steel non-tipping food and water bowls
• I.D. Tags with the contact information for yourself and your veterinarian
• A collar (8 to 12 inch size) and a 6-foot leather or nylon leash (not the retractable type)
• A 37- 42 inch wire crate with an adjustable divider in the center so you can grow the crate with your puppy.
• Dog shampoo  (I like the hypoallergenic kind)
• Brush and comb, – A pin brush goes over the top of the coat to make it look smooth, and a steel toothed comb works great for going deep into the coat.
• Nail clippers
• Cleanup supplies such as a stain remover, paper towels, deodorizing  and odor neutralizing spray(like Natures Miracle)
• Chew Toys (Kong is one of my favorite brands.) Do not get any rawhide chews.

This is a list of the basic necessities.   There are many other helpful and fun products available at pet supply stores.  www.petedge.com is one of my favorite online spots to pick up puppy supplies.

We look forward to seeing you when you come to pick up your puppy!  We would be glad to go over an questions you have about your new puppy’s care.

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doodlepuppy

We are located in northwest Indiana, about halfway between Indianapolis and Chicago off I-65.  

My doodles have been involved in search and rescue, hunting, and therapy work.  With their socialization skills and intelligence, they are the most suitable for therapy and companion-assistance type of work.  I have personally seen lives touched by my doodles and it does make a difference.

Mostly though, my doodles are acting silly, happy, loving and doing their best to make family ties stronger.  Of course, they still need training.

What do you mean __-Mart mentality?

Be prepared!  Our society has taught us that all we need to do is take our purchases out of the box, put in batteries, and away we go.  Real live puppies p__p and pee where we do not want them to, chew on your belongings (especially through teething time), and require a part of your busy schedule.  They in turn reward you with unconditional love, much happiness, and relief of stress.  

It is so so important to train them up in the way you want them to go or else they will be the biggest menace in your life!  You must learn how to communicate with them.  Read the books and attend a Basics class of your choice.  I do recommend the formal class setting for at least the first part of training so your puppy may continue to socialize with other puppies and people.  

The training your puppy receives in its first 8 weeks can last a lifetime.  Thus socialization is not taken lightly at Sunshine Acres.  Following is a general schedule each litter follows while here:

• 0-3 weeks — The puppies are maternally socialized.  This simply means they are cared for and taught by their mother.  Human contact is limited to healthcare and frequent but short contacts.
• 3-6 weeks — The puppies are imprinted to human contact with petting and light play as well as continued training from their mother.
• 6-8 weeks — The puppies spend time meeting different aged humans (primarily children) and are placed in different environments to accustom them to change.  They will also interact with other adult dogs and see and hear various other animals.
• 8-12 weeks — The puppies are now ready to go to their new homes and start their skills training.

Socialization never ends.  As puppies join their new packs, they will instinctively seek their level in the family hierarchy.  Although we love them dearly, they must be trained and taught that they are at the bottom of the family hierarchy.  A very big help to learn how to communicate with your puppy is to enroll him or her in a puppy basic obedience course as early as allowed by the instructor.  Classes are offered at most pet supply stores and canine schools in your area.  This class not only teaches your puppy skills, but continues your puppy’s socialization to you, other people, and other dogs.

The importance of beginning to train your Goldendoodle as soon as he comes to your home cannot be over emphasized.  Just a few minutes each day spent in fun interaction and training with your puppy will reap life long benefits.  By learning how to interact with your puppy, and understanding how a dog’s mind works, potential behavior problems will be avoided.  Help your puppy understand what your expectations are through obedience training.  A well mannered Goldendoodle puppy is one who will be loved by all and welcome everywhere!

Following is my recommended schedule for your Goldendoodle puppy once he/she is in your care:

• 8-16 weeks — Take your puppy to its veterinarian for a wellness check shortly after your puppy comes home (within 3 days).  Start to potty train your puppy.  I recommend the crate-training method.  Teach your puppy to sit and stay.  Take your puppy for short walks, but limit interaction with strangers and their pets until his or her immunizations are complete.  Finally, enroll your puppy in an obedience class.   This class will strengthen the bond between you and your puppy, teach you both about basic obedience and be a continued socialization opportunity for your puppy. This class can be started as soon as your puppy has complete his puppy shots (usually between 12 and 16 weeks).  If you prefer, professional trainers can also do individual classes, or come to your home for private lessons.
• 16+ weeks — Once a puppy is trained, he or she will occasionally relapse or possibly start an undesired behavior.  Review the basics with your puppy to remind them of your expectations.  There are many additional courses and training that is offered and you may consider more classes.

Hips – Canine Hip Displasia (CHD) merits concern by all doodle breeders and its prevalence may be reduced with selective breeding.  CHD is caused by a poorly formed ball-and-socket joint in the hip.  The quality of this joint may be screened by x-ray and can then be certified by either the OFA or PennHip organizations.

To select for new parents at Sunshine Acres, they are either OFA certified or have been screened by PennHip.  We carefully select the parents for each litter of puppies to ensure their offspring will have healthy hips.

Heart – A second health issue affecting doodles are heart murmurs.  Heart murmurs come in two different forms.  Many puppies, like human babies, can have heart murmurs that go away around 16 weeks of age.  A more severe heart murmur may not go away and develop into an adult dog health issue.  If adult parents have heart murmurs, there is a good chance that a percentage of their puppies may also have heart murmurs.  

All the parents at Sunshine Acres have had their hearts screened.

Blood – von Willebrand is a bleeding disorder that is prevalent in the Poodles.  If you are considering your puppy for breeding, it is important that the Poodle background is clear so you do not pass this down from one generation to another.

All my Poodle parents have been tested for this disease.

All of our Doodle puppies are first generation (F1) crosses.  The F1 hybrid is the healthiest cross possible due to “hybrid vigor”.  It is our desire to raise and promote this hybrid.  We carefully select each purebred parent for the characteristics that would result in puppies with the most desirable pet qualities.

Our goal in breeding F1 puppies is to breed a very healthy puppy with the desirable companion traits found in their purebred parents.  We do not breed multigenerational Doodles as we have no desire to produce a “pure breed” Doodle and we don’t want to see the Doodle hybrid begin to have the inbred genetic problems found in the purebreds.

Standards will range from 45-65 pounds for most of my puppies.

Moyens will range from 25-45 pounds.

No, I feel this is the barometer of what your dog is thinking and is too important to remove.  Of course, you could have it removed at any time, but I would not encourage you to.  This is really a small issue anymore.  When we first started the Goldendoodle many years ago, it was not clear whether a doodle should be docked.  The choice not to had prevailed which makes us and our dogs happy.

Steps to Purchase a Goldendoodle Puppy from Sunshine Acres-

If you are looking to get a puppy now (i.e. the puppy is  shown on the puppies for sale page)  this is the procedure for getting a puppy:

• Select the puppy you are interested in from the “Puppies for Sale” page.
• You can then call us or email.  We will confirm availability and answer any questions you have about the puppy.
• If you decide you have found the right puppy, please fill out the online application and pay $75 through PayPal.  This application is a short questionnaire asking about when you would like your puppy to come home to you, your current pets, past puppy experience and your basic contact information.  This application fee will be applied toward your puppy’s deposit fee.  We will then reply to your application and give you an invoice for the nonrefundable deposit to hold your puppy in the amount of $425.  Your payment options are cash, check, Visa or MasterCard.
• You must then decide whether you will come here to get your puppy, or have it shipped to a major airport near you.  We can make all flight arrangements for your puppy’s arrival.  We will need to know what dates and times work for you to receive your puppy.
• We will send you the puppy’s care information, shot/health record and payment information for the puppy’s final balance and shipping cost a few days before the puppy flies home.  Set aside some time to visit on the phone to go over any questions you have about the puppy’s arrival, and feeding/general care instructions.
• If you will be picking up your puppy here, you will receive all the above at that time.  We love to meet our puppies’ new families.

If you are looking to get a puppy at a future date (i.e. the puppy is not shown on the puppies for sale page at this time), this is the procedure for getting a puppy:

• Deposit to be placed on the waiting list for a litter is $75.  Fill out the online application/waiting list  and pay there through PayPal. This application is a short questionnaire asking about what characteristics you are wanting in your puppy, when you would like your puppy to come home to you, your current pets, past puppy experience and your basic contact information.  This application fee/waiting list fee will be applied toward your puppy’s deposit fee. 
• Once the litter has been born that matches the criteria/timing you indicated on your application and is about two weeks old, all applicants for that litter will be notified.  If you decide you do not wish to get a puppy from that litter, you are welcome to forward your deposit on to a future litter indefinitely.  However, if you chose to pass on the litter that matched your criteria, you would be placed on the next litter’s list after any other family who had already committed to that litter. 
• At the time we notify you of the litter’s arrival, you will be given the option to go ahead and make a Deposit to Reserve an Individual Puppy which is $425 ($500 minus the $75 application fee). Once the puppies reach 7 to 8 weeks of age, you will then be asked to choose which puppy from the litter you want.  You can come here to choose your puppy in person if logistics permit, or via photos and a video clip if you are from a distance. Puppies will be chosen in the order their families were placed on that litter’s waiting list.  Puppies can go home beginning at 10 weeks of age.

Puppy Choosing:  How does it work when I place a deposit on a litter that has already been born but the puppies are less than 7 weeks of age (individual photos of the litter are not yet shown)?

Before the puppies reach 7 weeks, deposits are just made on the litter for either a male or female.  At 7 weeks of age we have “puppy choosing time” for the litter, when the families come visit (in the order the deposits have been placed) to choose which puppy they would like.  If you live a distance from us, or if you are unable to come visit in person to choose your puppy I will post individual photos of each puppy on the website so you can see what each one looks like.  I will also take a video clip of the litter and email you a “puppy bio” for each puppy including their temperament testing results and the little similarities and differences we have observed in the puppies as they were growing up.  I usually make a few recommendations as to which puppy would be a nice match for your family (based on your application/phone visits) but the final decision as to which puppy you would get would be yours.  When puppy choosing time arrives, if you feel like none of the puppies are exactly what you wanted you can forward your deposit on to a future litter.  You would be placed on that list after any other family who had already committed to that litter.  I will notify you a couple of weeks before puppy choosing time to make an appointment for you to come and visit, or to schedule a time/times that you will be available to make a decision on which puppy will be yours.

Neopar

Neovac DA2

Pyrantel/Marquis

Ivomectrin

First of all let’s define some of the other generations.

1. F1B refers to a puppy from crossing an F1 Type 1 Goldendoodle to a Poodle (1/4 Golden and 3/4 Poodle).  This cross has been borrowed from the days of the Labradoodle.  An F1 Type 1 Labradoodle often had an undesirable coat, so the F1B Labradoodle was bred in an attempt to set the coat to a more poodle type coat.  This cross can be beneficial to the Goldendoodle if the breeder consistently has F1 Type 1 Goldendoodles with poor quality coats.  Otherwise, the F1B does increase the amount of inbreeding and can lower the amount of hybrid vigor.  Special care by the breeder should be taken to be sure the Poodle parents are the most unrelated as possible.
2. F2 refers to a puppy that is produced by crossing two F1 Type 1 (F1 Goldendoodle) parents.  Unless a breeder is focusing on creating a new purebred dog, this mating would otherwise produce an undesirable offspring if you are looking for a puppy with known genetics.  Simply put, the offspring from to F1 Type 1 Goldendoodles would produce litters that have puppies that are 25% pure Poodle, 50% F1 Type 1, and 25% pure Golden.  Essentially, you can get a similar puppy to the F1 Type 1, but you may not.  Sunshine Acres has chosen not to raise the F2 because we would not know what we are selling.
3. F2B refers to the above mentioned puppy that is mated to a purebred Poodle.  Again, this would set the coat a little more to the Poodle side, but here is what you would really be getting from a litter of puppies with this mating.  50% of your puppies would be purebred Poodle and 50% would be the same as the F1 Type 1 Goldendoodle.  So if you want a Poodle, why not just buy a purebred Poodle (it is worth more and costs less).  If you want an F1 Type 1 Goldendoodle, then buy the F1 Type 1.
4. Anything beyond these crosses are going to yield similar results but the percentages in a litter are going to be different unless the breeder has access to huge gene pool (hundreds of dogs) and are selecting for certain characteristics.  So don’t go telling a breeder making these crosses that they are wrong for doing so unless you understand their motivation for the cross.  Sunshine Acres supports the F1 Type 1, the F1 Type 3, a double cross (not yet defined), and the F1B as superior matings for the loveable Goldendoodle.  Remember our focus at Sunshine Acres is about the hybrid vigor and not about making another pure breed.
5. It is Sunshine Acres belief that any Goldendoodle with less than 50% Poodle is not a Goldendoodle.  It is a dog.  It is a hybrid of some sort, but it is not a Goldendoodle.
6. Supporting links on Goldendoodle genetics

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/F1_hybrid

http://www.creativegeneticsofca.com/documents/others/australian%20crossbreeding.pdf

just search for 3-way cross and read :). I do recommend reading from websites that are .org, .edu, or .gov for the most reliable information